Avocado eBike

You turn the key. The screen lights up. But instead of your speedometer, you see a flashing red symbol: "E10". Or maybe "E07". And just like that, your weekend ride is over before it started. The LCD display (often the M5 or M5 Pro model) is the brain of your Mamba Venom or Sahara. It communicates with the controller, battery, and motor. When something goes wrong, it tries to tell you—but usually in a cryptic language that isn't explained well in the manual. We receive hundreds of calls from riders panicking that their motor is dead. The good news? 80% of the time, it’s a loose cable or a sensor issue. The bad news? Sometimes, the screen itself has fried. In this guide, we will translate the error codes into plain English, explain the hidden "P-Settings," and show you how to swap a broken screen. The "Error Code" Dictionary Stop guessing. Here is the definitive list of error codes for Mamba e-bikes (and most generic fat tyre bikes using M5/SW900 displays). Error Code What It Means The Likely Fix E06 Battery Undervoltage Your battery is empty or the voltage is set wrong in settings (P03). Charge the battery fully. E07 Motor Fault Check the motor cable connection (near the rear wheel). Unplug and replug it. If it persists, the Hall Sensors inside the motor might be damaged. E08 Throttle Fault The throttle is stuck or disconnected. Try flicking the throttle to unstick it. If not, replace the throttle unit. E09 Controller Fault Communication failure. The controller is likely dead or a wire is melted. Requires controller replacement. E10 Communication Receive Fault The screen can't "hear" the controller. Usually a loose cable between the handlebars and the frame. Check the main waterproof plug. The "E10" Reality: E10 is the most common code we see. It rarely means a broken part. It usually means you pulled the cable too hard while folding the bike, or water got into the connector pins. Dry it out, plug it in firmly, and it often disappears. The Secret "P-Settings" Menu Your Mamba display has a hidden menu that controls the bike's behavior. To access it, usually hold the UP and DOWN buttons together for 3 seconds. Note: Do not change settings you don't understand. You can brick the bike. P03 (Voltage): Must be set to 48 (for 48V battery). If set to 36 or 52, your battery meter will be wrong. P06 (Wheel Size): Should be 20 or 22 (depending on tyre thickness). If your speedometer is wrong, adjust this. P08 (Speed Limit): The controversial one. Setting this to 100 unlocks full speed (for private property use only). Setting it to 25 restricts it for road use. Is It the Screen or the Controller? This is the hardest question to answer without tools. If your bike won't turn on, is the screen broken, or is the controller dead? The "Flashlight Test" If the screen is black but the bike still runs (throttle works), the LCD backlight is dead. You need a new screen. The "Swap Test" If you have a friend with a Mamba, plug their screen onto your bike. If it turns on, your screen was dead. If it stays off, your Controller or Battery Mount is likely the issue. Replacement Guide: Plug & Play? Replacing the Mamba LCD Display is usually straightforward, but there is a catch. Step 1: Removal Turn off the battery key. Trace the cable from the screen down to the first connector (usually 20cm down). Unplug the Green 5-Pin Waterproof Connector. Do not twist! Pull straight. Unscrew the bracket bolts on the handlebar using a hex key. Step 2: Installation Mount the new screen loosely (don't tighten yet). Align the arrows on the Green connector. This is critical. If you bend the tiny pins inside, the new screen is trash. Push firmly until it clicks. Turn on the bike to test before tightening the bolts. Compatibility Warning: Not all "M5 Displays" are the same. A generic M5 from Amazon might have different firmware protocols than the Mamba controller. They might plug in, but show "E10" instantly. Always buy the specific replacement for your controller brand. Frequently Asked Questions Q: My screen has condensation/fog inside. Is it broken? A: It’s common in humid Sydney weather. It usually clears up in the sun. However, if it causes the buttons to stop working, water has corroded the circuit board. It needs replacing. Q: Can I upgrade to the color screen (M5 Pro)? A: Usually, yes! If you have the black-and-white M5, the M5 Color Display is a direct plug-and-play upgrade. It’s brighter and easier to read in sunlight. Q: I reset my settings and now the pedal assist feels weak. A: You likely reset P11 (Assist Sensitivity) or P12 (Assist Strength). Default is usually 3. If it reset to 1, it will feel sluggish. Why Avocado Replacement Parts? Electronics are tricky. Buying a generic screen online is a gamble because the communication protocol (UART) must match the controller. At Avocado E-Bike, our replacement screens are: Pre-Flashed: The firmware is guaranteed to talk to Mamba/Kristall controllers. Inspect Before Ship: We check the pins and buttons before posting from NSW. Support Included: If you get an Error Code after installing, we help you fix the P-settings. Clear the Errors. Ride Again. Don't let a $50 part keep your $2000 bike in the garage. Shop Replacement Mamba Display Screens Compatible with Mamba Venom, Sahara & Kristall  

It’s the scenario every Mamba rider dreads: You are 15km from home, it looks like rain, and suddenly—squish. Your rear tyre feels like marshmallow, and your steering goes wobbly. Let’s be honest: changing a flat on a 10kg road bike is annoying. Changing a flat on a 35kg fat tyre e-bike with a rear hub motor? That can feel like a military operation. But don't panic. We’ve done hundreds of these in the Avocado workshop. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the "Mamba Method" to get you back on the road without stripping your motor nuts or losing your temper. The Tools You Actually Need Forget the tiny plastic levers that came with your $10 bicycle repair kit. They will snap in half the moment they touch a fat tyre bead. 18mm Wrench (or Adjustable Spanner): To loosen the rear axle nuts. Zip Ties (Cable Ties): Trust us on this. You'll need to cut the old ones holding the motor cable. Steel Core Tyre Levers: You need leverage. The Spare Tube: A standard 20x4.0 Inner Tube. The "Motor Anxiety": Disconnecting the Wheel The scariest part for most riders is the motor cable. "If I unplug this, will I break the bike?" The Fix: Look at the chainstay (the frame bar near the chain). You will see a black cable coming from the motor axis. Follow it up to a connector. Snip the Zip Ties: Cut the plastic ties holding the cable to the frame. The "Pull" Trick: Grip the two ends of the connector firmly. Do NOT twist. Just pull straight apart. It will pop loose. Loosen the Nuts: Use your 18mm wrench to loosen the axle nuts. You don't need to take them off completely, just enough to slide the wheel out. The "Washer Order" Photo: Before you pull the wheel off, take a photo of the washers on the axle with your phone. There is usually a special "anti-rotation" washer with a tab. You must put it back in the same way, or your motor will spin inside the frame and rip the cable out. Wrestling the Bead Fat tyres like the CST BFT sit tight on the rim. If you can't get the tyre lever under the bead, try the "Stomp" technique. Lay the wheel on the grass (rotor side up!). Stand on the tyre sidewall with your heel to break the seal. Once it "pops" away from the rim edge, you can get your lever in. Tube Swap & The "Thorn Check" You pull the old tube out. You put the new one in. You pump it up. Bang. It goes flat again. Why? Because the thorn that killed your first tube is still stuck in the tyre. The Finger Swipe: Carefully run your fingers along the inside of the tyre casing. Feel for anything sharp. Warning: Do this slowly or you will slice your finger. If you find a thorn, pull it out with pliers. What We DO NOT Recommend We see these "hacks" on YouTube, and we see the results in our repair shop. Please avoid: Slime/Sealant as a Permanent Fix: Green slime is great for small pinholes, but it makes a massive mess. If you have a blowout, that slime covers your rim, your floor, and us. It makes patching the tube later impossible. Patching on the Roadside: Just swap the tube. Patching a fat tube in the rain is miserable and glue takes time to cure. Patch it at home with a beer in hand. "Liner" Strips without Taping: If you use plastic anti-puncture liners, make sure the ends are taped smooth inside the tyre. Otherwise, the sharp edge of the liner itself will cut your tube. FAQ: Pressures & Prevention Q: What PSI should I run to avoid flats? A: Many flats are "pinch flats" caused by low pressure hitting a curb. For street riding on a Mamba, we recommend 25-28 PSI. If you go off-road on sand, drop it to 15 PSI, but reinflate before hitting the tarmac. Q: Can I put a motorbike tube in? A: Some riders fit 20-inch motorbike tubes because they are thicker. They fit, but they are incredibly heavy (adding 2kg to your wheels). We recommend sticking to Heavy Duty Bicycle Tubes instead for a better ride feel. The "Anti-Rotation" Re-Install Putting the wheel back is the reverse of removal. But remember that photo you took? Check the washers. The tab on the anti-rotation washer must face down into the dropout slot. Tighten the nuts hard. A loose rear wheel on a 750W e-bike is a recipe for disaster. Don't Get Stranded There is nothing worse than pushing a 35kg bike home. We recommend carrying a spare tube and a small pump in your pannier bag at all times. Shop 20x4.0 Spare Tubes & Tyres  

The Mamba Venom and Sahara are absolute beasts on the road. They pack massive motors, huge fat tyres, and serious speed. But there is a common saying in the e-bike world that every rider learns eventually: "It doesn't matter how fast you can go; it matters how fast you can stop." If you are reading this, you’ve probably experienced "The Squeak." You pull the brake lever, and instead of a smooth, confident stop, you get a loud metallic screech that wakes up the neighbourhood. Or worse—the lever touches the handlebar grips, and you’re still moving forward. In this guide, we’re going to be honest about the stock mechanical brakes, explain the physics of why they struggle with 30kg+ e-bikes, and detailing why upgrading to Avocado Hydraulic Brakes is the single best safety investment you can make. 1. The "Oh S**t" Moment: A Real Scenario Let’s set the scene. You’re riding your Mamba down a steep hill in Sydney. You’re doing about 35km/h. Suddenly, a car pulls out from a driveway. With Mechanical Brakes: You panic and squeeze hard. The steel cable stretches under the tension. The caliper clamps down, but you feel resistance in the lever. You have to use four fingers and pull with real force. The bike slows down, but it feels like a struggle, and the rear wheel might skid unpredictably. With Hydraulic Brakes: You use one finger. You tap the lever gently. The fluid pressure engages the pads instantly. The stopping power is linear—meaning the harder you pull, the more you stop, without the "on/off" skid feeling. You stop with meters to spare. The Physics Check: Mechanical brakes aren't "bad"—they are perfectly fine for a 12kg road bike. But a Mamba Venom weighs over 30kg, plus your weight (say 80kg), plus momentum. Mechanical cables simply stretch too much under that 100kg+ dynamic load. 2. Mechanical vs. Hydraulic: The Technical Breakdown Feature Stock Mechanical Brakes Avocado Hydraulic Upgrade Actuation Steel Cable (Stretches over time) Mineral Oil Fluid (Does not compress) Modulation "On/Off" feeling. Hard to feather. Linear and smooth. Easy to control in corners. Maintenance Frequent manual adjustments needed as pads wear. Self-adjusting pistons. Pads sit closer automatically. Effort Requires strong hand grip (3-4 fingers). Feather-light touch (1-2 fingers). The "Modulation" Factor Many riders think upgrading brakes is just about raw power (locking the wheels). It's actually about modulation. Hydraulic brakes allow you to feel the grip of the tyres. On a fat tyre bike, this prevents you from locking up the front wheel on loose gravel and sliding out. 3. The Upgrade Path: Know Your Options Depending on your budget and mechanical skills, you have two ways to fix your braking. Option A: The Quick Fix (New Pads) If your brakes are just noisy but still stop okay, you might just need better pads. Stock pads are often hard metallic compounds that last long but sound terrible. Switching to Ceramic or Resin Brake Pads can reduce noise and improve initial "bite." Option B: The Real Fix (Full Hydraulic Kit) This replaces your entire lever, hose, and caliper system. The Avocado Hydraulic Brake Set is designed as a plug-and-play solution for Mamba frames. Crucial Feature - Motor Cut-Off: Our kits include the 2-pin red waterproof connector. This communicates with your controller to cut motor power instantly when you touch the brakes. Many generic hydraulic brakes (like Shimano MT200) lack this sensor, meaning your motor might keep pushing against you while you try to stop. 4. Installation: The Tricky Part (Internal Routing) This is where things get real. The Mamba features internal cable routing (the cables go inside the frame) for a clean look. The Challenge: You can't just pull the old brake line out, or you'll never get the new one through. The Trick: Tape the end of the new hydraulic hose to the end of the old mechanical cable before you pull it out. Use the old cable to "fish" the new hose through the frame. The Warning: Do not disconnect the hydraulic hose from the lever unless you have a "Bleed Kit" handy, as air will get into the system. 5. What We DO NOT Recommend We’ve seen some expensive mistakes in the workshop. Please avoid these: WD-40 on Rotors: Never, ever spray WD-40 near your brakes to stop the squeaking. It will contaminate the pads instantly, and you will have zero braking power. You’ll have to throw the pads away and degrease the rotor. Mixing Fluids: If you buy a hydraulic kit elsewhere, check if it uses Mineral Oil or DOT Fluid. Mixing them will swell the seals and cause total brake failure. (Our Avocado kits use Mineral Oil for safer maintenance). "Cable-Actuated" Hydraulic Calipers: You might see "hybrid" calipers online that use the old cable to pull a hydraulic piston. In our experience, these offer the worst of both worlds—you still get cable stretch friction, but with added complexity. Go full hydraulic or stay mechanical. 6. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Q: Do I need to "bleed" the brakes before installing? A: No. The Avocado Hydraulic Kit comes pre-bled and filled with mineral oil. It is ready to bolt on. You only need to bleed them if you decide to cut the hoses shorter. Q: Can I upgrade to larger rotors (180mm or 203mm)? A: The stock Mamba rotors are usually 160mm. You can upgrade to 180mm for better heat dissipation, but you will need a "Caliper Adapter" bracket to move the brake caliper further out. Without the adapter, the larger rotor won't fit. Q: Will this void my warranty? A: Upgrading safety components like brakes generally does not void the warranty on your motor or battery. In fact, we recommend it. However, damage caused by improper installation (like leaking oil onto the motor hub) wouldn't be covered. 7. The "Bedding In" Process Don't skip this. If you install new brakes and immediately go for a top-speed run, you will "glaze" the pads and ruin them. How to do it: Accelerate to 20km/h, then brake firmly but don't stop completely. Slow down to walking pace, then let go. Repeat this 10-15 times. This transfers a microscopic layer of pad material onto the rotor, creating the friction surface needed for maximum power. Ready to Upgrade? We often tell customers: you can save money on a fancy seat or grips, but never cheap out on brakes. Upgrading to hydraulic brakes changes the entire feel of the Mamba. It makes the bike feel premium, controlled, and most importantly—safe. Shop Mamba Hydraulic Brake Upgrade Kit